Indigo Kitchen and Bar in Maplewood: Sophisticated dining
Published: Thursday, December 10, 2009
Cody Kendall for The Star Ledger

Don’t call Indigo Kitchen and Bar a "barbecue place" when talking to co-owner Lance Knowling. It’s a natural slip for anyone thinking of Indigo Smoke (formerly) in Montclair, where Kansas City native Knowling also is (was) the proprietor. In his hometown, barbecue is as ubiquitous as Italian food is in New Jersey. But while you’ll find barbecue on the menu at Indigo Kitchen, which Knowling opened in September with partner Bradley Takahashi, most of the food is modern American.

No matter where the menu roams, there is always a corner that’s forever barbecue. You can order a very decent pulled beef brisket platter ($14) or sandwich ($8.50) and half-rack of baby-back ribs ($14). But that’s just a starting point, with delicious possibilities beyond the authentic "Q" hickory and applewood-smoked items with their just-sweet-enough sauce.

There is slow-roasted basa ($14), a mellow type of catfish that ups its ante with grilled polenta, olives, capers and a roasted tomato broth. Like all the entrées, it’s served with a side vegetable and "pull-apart" bread. "Company" fried chicken ($12), buttermilk and herb-coated, offered with mashed potatoes and gravy, is pure comfort food. And speaking of comfort, the cunning little appetizer of roasted tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwich triangles ($6) also fills that bill admirably. If you’re in the mood for something more sophisticated, hope they’ll be serving the brilliant pork shoulder special ($18). It’s cooked for six hours, then presented atop a cake of grits and scallions. The meat’s flavor is enhanced by sautéed pears and wild mushrooms, a production that chases away the cold-weather blues. Desserts are as down-home as sides of collard greens and mashed sweet potatoes. Classic red velvet cake ($3.50) with cream-cheese icing and an appealing slice of apple pie ($4) hit the spot.

The chef is Luke Finn, who cooked at several New York restaurants, including Le Cirque and 11 Madison. He easily moves between folksy and uptown with choices that have wide-ranging appeal.

… The space has been redesigned by Knowling with the assistance of an architect to produce a variety of textures and feelings, using different colors and exposed brick for a look that is both catchy and stylish.

Management is wise to keep the prices on the wine list at bargain levels. The roster of well-mannered choices at $20 (wine by the glass starts at $6) sets the right tone, underlining the feeling that you have come to a place that shows the same regard for your wallet as the staff does for your comfort.

This is a spot custom-made for the era of tight money. Indigo is a morale booster with a convivial — albeit noisy — atmosphere, and enjoyable food that is a wonderful value.

The best in New Jersey dining 2009 (excerpt)
Published: Friday, December 25, 2009
Cody Kendall for The Star Ledger

It’s been a tough year for restaurants, as a difficult economy cut into the discretionary funds many people use for dining out. Some places have closed, while others scaled back or adapted in different ways to changing times.

Those that survived and even prospered often are special places, like my favorites among those I reviewed in 2009.

…. Other restaurants of note that I particularly enjoyed this year, and their claims to distinction, include:

… Best bargain: Indigo Kitchen and Bar, Maplewood. The roster of $20 wines provides an encouraging welcome to this lively establishment. The menu offers expert barbeque and modern American dishes, some with a southern accent, by chef Luke Finn. Whether it’s a pulled beef brisket platter or slow-roasted basa (a type of catfish) accompanied by polenta, the price is right.